Saturday, 25 July 2009

Belgium Reprised


A hot wind (29C) blowing down from the Grimsel Pass battered the tent and our nerves as it blustered all night long - so early next morning we upped sticks and headed north - to Belgium. I can't remember how many years it was since we were last there (could be 15) and my memory of the camp-site and the cliffs was a bit hazy! We got established at Villatoille (near Dinant) - the site was really busy but soon quietened down after 10:00 - very civilised.
We visited the crags at Dave - which Sherri described very accurately as a Belgium Stoney Middleton - the climbing was good, though very polished and I was shocked at how far apart the bolts were - must be getting old! One easy route I look Sherri up had 3 bolts in each of its two 30m pitches - I was glad I had plenty in reserve!
Sunday we called in at Marche les Dames and it was busy with weekend climbers, mostly Dutch and Belgian, with the odd German(!) and us. Another place that I had fogotten about; the climbing was good (though poished again) but the routes proved to be long, steep, pumpy pitches with spaced bolts - and some rather suspect grades - take me back to Kalymnos!

Friday, 17 July 2009

Swiss Pleasure - Indeed

Ten days here now, the weather has been a bit mixed, though mostly good, (witheringly hot at times too; 29C at midnight one day last week) but it has been great to be back. The beauty of the area is that to escape the heat it is simply a matter of driving uphill for 20 minutes or so to reach an area with the required temperature. The pain from the tooth (and the bill) have gone, and we have already pencilled in a possible return in September when things have cooled down a bit and the crowds have gone home.
The climbing has been tremendous, even better than I remember, I wonder how a Swiss Select in the good old RockFax style might go down - now there's a thought!

Thursday, 9 July 2009

Swiss Granite - Yummy

Back to Handegg, it has been a while (seven years) and despite the showery weather, it is great to be back. Visits to both the Susten Pass and the Grimsel Pass to sample the climbing have been great - there is still a lot of snow about and many wet streaks on the big slabs, but there is still plenty to go at. Hikes into Eldorado and through the Aarschluct Gorge were also grand, the visit to a dentist in Meiringen for a root-canal filling less so. Not that it was especially painful, I just haven't had the bill yet! (Finally got the bill 635 Swiss Francs - now that really did hurt!)

Friday, 3 July 2009

Jura's a Park

The ferry crossing was silk-smooth and a quick nip across France saw us back to Pontarlier, in the Jura, just a spit from the Swiss border. It is seven years since we were down this way (seven great summers in Norway) but it felt good to be back in the area.
Some impressive thunder storms have been grumbling away on and off, it is also pretty hot, though camping at 3000' has taken the edge of the heat.
We had a walk up Mont d'Or, (4750') which was superb, myriad wild flowers, great views and a lovely breeze. The following day we visited a small crag actually in Pontarlier - an old quarry (much better than it sounds) with just over 100 routes, I cracked of a quick 13, nothing above F5+ but it was just nice to be moving. The reason for doing 13 - simple, I added them up wrong!

Saturday, 27 June 2009

Wham, Bam, thank you Mam!

Colin came down for a few days to get a bit of rocking done - the weather has been hot and sweaty for a while now but we thought we would try a few new venues. As a starter Masson Lees was interesting (including the drive down, my car was in for a service, they offered me a choice of courtesy car - a diesel Legacy or an Impreza WRX!). The sunny side was roasting but the shady side was much more equable. We did six routes (OK Colin did seven, including cruising a F7a) - a great find by Gary and bon effort with the development.
Thursday we headed for Colwyn Bay and the routes at Penmaen Head - again we were more than a little surprised, pleasant setting, great routes, lovely rock. The sun eventually fried us but in the mean time I did seven and Colin did eleven (and a half!) - a place we must go back too asap.
Friday was forecast to be the hottest yet, so we headed for Higgar Tor in the hope of catching a bit of a breeze. The hope was a bit forlorn (due to the easterly wind) but we did half a dozen of the 'easier. routes up there. I vidoed Colin zipping up the File in 2 mins 35 secs too! What I need now is a bit of a rest - maybe a cruise to Zeebrugge and a touring holiday to Switzerland will fit the bill!

Sunday, 21 June 2009

Flaming June

After a mixed but excellent few days in Pembroke the weather in the Peak has been a bit unsettled, despite the meteo forecasting a lovely (hot and sweaty?) summer. A day getting beaten by easy routes at Ramshaw and battered by the wind on Stanage was enough - we booked a passage to Handegg via Hull. With that sorted the weather perked up (of course) and it was a big team outing to Stanage. A glorious June day - the longest - with highlights of Mississippi Varient Direct (E1 5b), Paucity (HVS 5b) and Good Friday (HVS 5b) - all of which were easier than Mantrap (HVDiff) at Ramshaw!
Colin's down for a few days later in the week - now where shall we head?

Sunday, 7 June 2009

Pembrokeering

Alan organised a RockFax/UKC (A-Team; me, Colin and Sherri B-Team Alan, Mick and Mikey) to spend a few days in Pembroke, after the school halfterm to ensure the place was nice and quiet. And so it proved to be - the cool weather, wind and rain certainly kept the masses away!
Despite mixed weather, over three hectic days we managed to visit/climb/check Mewsford, The Castle, Mother Carey's, Saddle Head, Buckspool Down and St Govans as well as fill most of the photographic gaps.
Amazingly it was eleven years ago that I last visited the area, and inevitably, as soon as we got back I wondered why it had taken so long!
The B-team camped at Bosherston - great for the pub but a bit damp at night - whereas Sherri found us some superb accommodation at Thorne Chapel, only three miles from Bosherston. We stayed in the 'pool-house' and Colin got his own Gypsy Caravan in the woods - I think he may be starting fortune telling!

There and Back Again

The Gorgeous Maurienne  From Argentiere we headed over and through the mountains (Frejus Tunnel = €56) as the Galibier Pass was still closed...