Better by Miles

Fabled Bohuslen lived up to expectations, at least on Day 3. Saturday we managed a walk out to one of the local headlands, wild and windy, but very spectacular with superb pink granite as far as the eye could see - in every direction.
Sunday was what the doctor ordered; sunshine and climbing - a simple mix.
The forecast is set fair and the guidebook has 100 crags and 1200 routes - that will do nicely!

Goteburg Joking

We arrived at Gothenburg on the Monday - in the rain, and left on the Friday - in the rain! It stopped briefly on the Wednesday, so I got the chance for a quick half-a-dozen routes - before the rain started again - flaming June indeed!

What a disappointment - at least I got a stack of proofing done for new the West Country Climbs guidebook, which is looking quite magnificent. We have move up the coast to the spectacular granite area of Bohuslen to see if that can improve the trip. Currently it is raining (how novel) so we have booked into the tiniest of cabins - actually scrub that, we got an free upgrade from the tiniest of cabins to one a bit bigger than tiny! It is still minute but least is is waterproof.

Swedish Sampler

A few days in Southern Sweden to catch our breath was the idea. We headed for the small granite headland of Kullaberg, and the pleasant seaside village of Molle. Glorious weather helped as did the nice if generally rather short climbing on good quality granite. The camp-site was pretty much deserted - until the weekend, when were were dazed and amazed by the invasion - it felt like half of Sweden (and most of Denmark) had arrived to camp!
A walk round the headland on the Saturday revealed cars, coaches, minibuses and motorbikes in their hundreds. All of the cliffs were mobbed with abseiling groups, there was also a bit of top-roping going on, as well as diving, sailing, fishing, rambling and golf - this is one POPULAR spot.
Sunday was another cracker, the key, we found was to roll up at the cliff mid-afternoon, just as everyone was packing up ready to make the long drive home.
Monday the rain arrived as forecast - time to head north.

Commodore Craggs

A steady ride through the rain and spray got us Harwich in good time for the Esbjerg boat, the DFDS Dana Sirena. The lady in the check-in booth gave us a label to hang on the rear-view mirror, I had a quick look - "Commodore", hmmmm interesting thought I.
We were directed to the front of the queue (right behind a brand new Bentley) and were ushered straight onto the boat.
At the impressively scaled cabin we were greeted by a stewardess who explained that everything in the Commodore area was 'complimentary' - coffee, snacks, wifi, beer, whisky and breakfast too. I had to bite my lip and not say that there must have been a mistake.
I haven't a clue why we got the free upgrade, - but we are going to make the most of it!
The crossing was silk-smooth and the journey across Denmark, quick and interesting. The two huge bridges that link the islands are impressive feats of engineering, and a £25 a pop - expensive to use!

Windy Wharncliffe Wanderings

May Bank Holiday rolls around again and for the 2nd year on the trot we headed to Wharncliffe Crags to avoid the crowds. (An aside: When I used to teach Chemistry at the nearby High Green School 'Wharncliffe" was my nick-name - it could have been a lot worse!).
It was 'fresh' with a brisk north westerly, and the crag was quite busy. It turned out that Steve had only been there twice in the previous 20 years, so we ticked a few of the classics.
Scarlett's Wall Direct (photo) was the starter, S 4a in 'the Definitive' guide, my book gives it a more accurate HS 4c - nice one guys!
Monday we had to pack the car and get ready for Sweden - looks like it is time to head off again.

Burbage Summer Bumblings

The hottest day of the year so far; 28C or thereabouts. The shady recesses of Burbage South was the chosen venue (nice one Steve) - the crag was the busiest I have ever seen it - by a mile. Many routes were occupied and there were boulderers by the dozen scampering over those small rocks down in the valley. Our jolly group of almost a dozen sampled some of the full-on mini-classics that the Edge abounds with.
Everymans' Misery was the most striking - it has long been given VS 5a, though ascents by several members of the team (excluding yours truly!) suggested a grade of E2 5a might have been nearer the mark.
When the sun finally came round we adjourned to the Norfolk Arms at Ringinglow for a pint in the beer-garden - mellow!

Back to Blighty - Briefly!

The French month was good though hectic, now it is time to settle down and get stuck into the less glamorous side of guidebook writing - the donkey work of writing the text, sorting the shots, drawing the topos etc. It needs some long days in front of the computer though the bulk of the book is already in the bag. A day on the grit with the usual suspects plus another photographing for Peak Limestone broke the week up nicely.
Then there is the summer - current plans centre around southern Norway, possibly accessed via a freight boat from Immingham, or maybe Harwich > Esbjerg and southern Sweden. I'm looking forward to it already.