Cyprus - that's Different

Cyprus - nice a quite away from the coast

Our 90 days in Schengen were up, so we had to leave Kalymnos - cheers for that all you small minded Brexiteers. We needed to make a decision, and returning to the UK in November was bottom of the list. There are four destination that are in the EU and aren't in Schengen - Croatia, Romania, Bulgaria and Cyprus - and a visit to any of these is allowed for 90 days and it doesn't count towards your tally. Of the four it turns out that Cyprus is a good winter destination so we hopped on two planes - that's been a while - and checked into a pad near Paphos for six weeks.

Stormy weather

First impressions are very favourable - the weather is mild, everyone speaks English and they drive on the left. The coastal area is very busy, with lots of modern developments - but inland is a whole different world. The island isn't a main-stream climbing destination but there is certainly enough to pass a few weeks, the three main areas for sport climbing are about thirty minutes drive from where we are stopping - though one of those is the reserve of the hard men.

Ancient remains.

And then there is the history/archaeology - the place has been inhabited for millennia and has been a crossroads for the Eastern Mediterranean. There are the most amazing remains from the Greeks and Romans and all those who came later. We have already visited the Tombs of the Kings and Old Paphos and there is more to come.

Kalytastic

The UK in Autumn

 So we headed back to the UK from Coatia via a lazy three day drive through Slovenia, Austria, Germany and Holland, followed by an overnight crossing to Hull - back to sunny (not!) Sheffield. We only had six days at home, and the weather was best described as 'mixed' - it rained every day but the sun came out most days too. 

Colin cane down for three days and we had a couple of great autumnal walks, with spectacular colours and a lot of folks - Wyming Brook and Padley Gorge. Then he dropped us off at Leeds/Bradford airport for a easy flight down to Kos on an almost empty Jet2 flight. 

Kalymnos in Autumn

Six weeks less than two years and we rolled back into Kalymnos - we never knew what was trundling down the line when we left back in 2019. Apparently the autumn here has been the busiest season ever, with crowds, queues and the locals making up for lost time. Our first week was still busy - 40 scooters at Ghost Kitchen one day - but week two has been remarkably quiet - just how we like it.

North and South

The battering roaring blast of the Bora

Our continued exploration of Croatia get rather blown off track by the Bora, a cold blustery wind that blows out of the interior and across the Dalmation coast. It started blowing in Baška and 12 days later, down at Paklenica it was still roaring - they say wind can drive you mad - they may well be right. Unsure of how long it might blow for or how widespread it might me, be we decided on a rethink - and Kalymnos in November came out top of the list of Plan Bs.

Initially we thought about driving, or flying from Croatia but both were problematic especially as we would probably be trying to do the return journey in December. After a lot of mulling we decided the easiest option was to head back to the UK, get our flu jabs and then jump on one of the many near-empty planes flying down to Kos to bring tourists home at the end of the season.

We have about four weeks left in Schengen in the time up to the middle of January - the current plan is to spend them in Kalymnos then relocate to Cyprus - which like Croatia has a separate 90 day limit. We have never been to Cyprus so that is a plus, the winters are mild and there is some climbing - that almost sounds like a plan.

Brexit Bollies and Options Galore

Rovinj - Croatia

 We arrived in Europe about eight weeks ago which means that we have already used up 2/3 of our allotted time in the Schengen Area - what a pain! We visited the Spanish and the French Pyrenees, the Briançon and Maurienne areas and Arco/Lake Garda in Italy.

And then - far too soon, it was time to exit Schengen - saving about 30 days of our entitlement in case we want to visit Kalymnos in the autumn, or if we need to head back to the UK.

So we got all our documents in order and rolled up to the Croatian border - where precisily nothing was checked, no passport stamps, no questions asked - all a bit of a surprise.

First impressions are favourable, everbody speaks English, the cost of living is cheap, the place is very civilised and there is some half-decent climbing. 

We have three months at our disposal, so we intend to explore the place from end to end climbing along the way.

After three months we can dip back into the Schengen area or head to another of the countries that are in the EU but not in Schegen - Hungary, Bulgaria and Cyprus. Or even visit the Balkan states.

So in many respects Brexit has been a sorry mess, but it has thrown up new options and tempted us to new places, which is the real positive to have come out of it - thanks Boris and your bunch of charlatans.

Wandering Eastwards

Aussois - high and cool

It is six weeks since we docked in Santander and we continue our slow ramble eastwards via the Pyrenees and then the Alps: so far we have visited Panticosa (Spain), the Ariege, Briançon, Puy St Vincent then Aussois and Avreiux in the Maurienne. Generally we have have managed to stay high and avoid the worst of the heat, Aussois (4,800') was especially good with chilly nights and great sleeping conditions throughout our stay.

Mont Blanc from the Col de Galibier

With it still being August everywhere is still very busy - but hopefully another week and the arrival of September should finally sort that out as everybody goes back to work and school.

Our onward plans including eventually heading to non-Schengen Croatia so as to extend our time in Europe - let's see how that goes.

Slumming it in Spain

Panticosa, Spanish Pyrenees

 When we headed back to the UK in mid-March, the 'plan' (if it can be called such) was to quarantine for 10 days, get our first jabs, wait twelve weeks for our second, wait two more weeks, then head off again - around four months in total. In the event, sixteen weeks after arriving we were on a boat heading back across Biscay to resume our travels where we left off!

We don't normally 'do' high summer in Europe as it is just too hot but needs must - we spent our first week at Panticosa in the Spanish Pyrenees, at just under 4000' the days were hot (30C) but at least the nights were lovely and cool at around 13C.

Onward plans include the Ariege, Briançon and the Maurienne, beyond that things are 'flexible'. Of course there is always the Elephant in the Room - our 90 day limit in the Schengen Area - but like Baldrick "we have a cunning plan".

Grand ont'Gower

Sherri taking in the ambiance at Watch House Slab

 So two weeks after getting our second jab - two and half weeks ahead of schedule we decide it was time to go somewhere - anywhere actually - the need to get away was driving us up the wall. A trip to Portugal, the only 'Green' destination in Europe had been pencilled in to use the last 17 days of our EU 90/180 allowance. Fortunately we didn't book anything as it turned back to Amber - had we gone we would had the choices of i) dash for home ii) quarantine at home or iii) stay put. 

Rhossili Beach - the best in the UK?

The stunning line of Scavenger VS 4c

So Plan B was a couple of weeks bolt clipping in South Wales using the recent Rockfax guide to sport climbing in the area. When we looked into it in more detail we decide we could cope with a couple of weeks on the Gower - where there is plenty of climbing, both sport and trad, great beaches and somewhere we could actually find some accommodation.

In the event is was a good call - not too much travelling, some excellent climbing, great weather and a nice pad just outside the 'Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty'.

Downsides? Everywhere was pretty damn busy - (though climbers were noticeable by there absence) - the minor roads on the Gower are regularly log-jammed with buses, lorries, campers and queues of car which makes for slow going. Also almost all the climbing areas are approached downhill which leaves a knackering walk out at the end of the day!

Oh - and I almost forgot the BIG news - June 1st/2nd we went over to Doncaster with Graham and Helen for a night in the Hilton Hotel at the racecourse and to 'tie the knot'. Engaged for 30+ years, we decided as we had a bit of time on out hands....... :-) A grand do!