Sunday, 23 November 2008

Wharncliffe Wanderings

Dave Gregory was doing a bit of research for a someone writing a history of James Puttrell (JWP) and he had a selection of ancient b & w photographs - ostensibly of Wharncliffe) that he wanted identifying. It was the coldest day of the year so far (1.5 degrees) but it seemed like as good an excuse as any for a day out.
We managed to i.d. all the shots except one (left) which was captioned "Puttrell's Crack" though this turned out to be a wide chimney crack. Despite having climbed in the Peak for a combined period of over 100 years, neither of us could put a name to the route. I even placed a thread on UKC asking the "great and good" for their help, but so far this has also drawn a complete blank!

We also visited Cascade Buttres, the Bass Rock and Lodge Buttress, so I took a few shots for Eastern Grit Ver.III though that will be a few years down the line.

Friday, 7 November 2008

Every one's a winner!

Photo: CC checking out the jump between the horns on the Svolvaer Goat!

John Harlin described Lofoten Rock as "perfect" when it was chosen as the winner of this years Banff "Mountain Exposition Award".

Enough said!

Cheers to Sherri, Colin, Thorbjørn and Alan - as ever it was a team effort!

Thursday, 6 November 2008

Easy as 123


That's that then - Kalymnos done and dusted. Five weeks, 123 routes, 10 minutes rain - and tomorrow we head for home - I think I am going to cry! The 10 forecast STILL shows no rain, the temperatures continue to drop, and I estimate the number of climbers around has dropped from over 1000 when we first arrived to less than 50. At Arhi this morning there was a solitary scooter compared to the 50+ at peak times. On thing is for sure - as Arnie said - I'll be back!

Thursday, 30 October 2008

A Sea Change

I think that was our flight passing high overhead as I clipped the lower-off on Sea Breeze - oh dear - but never mind! Nice to get another 6b in the bag, followed in double-quick time by yet another - the time spent growing some thick skin has worked, the current tally now stands at 98 - which isn't too shoddy!
Suddenly the place has gone rather quite, which is great, we had the crag to ourselves today, and the sun continues to shine. The 10 day forecast doesn't show any rain either - so all in all things are tickety boo! Now where's that guidebook.

Saturday, 25 October 2008

Rejuvenation

Three weeks in - 80 brilliant routes, 10 minutes rain - that just about sums it up.
My climbing has pretty much tailed of in recent years, from fanatical to just keen! I seem to spend most of my time checking stuff for guidebooks and grabbing the odd days climbing here and there. Kalymnos has been a revelation, every crag has been great, the routes have generally been magnificent - even in the lower end of the grade spectrum that I now operate in. The old pattern of pick a crag and go climbing, then do the same tomorrow and the day after has been really great. There are still huge swathes of cliff we haven't been anywhere near, and finally as the season draws to an end it it starting to quieten down nicely. Regular reports on the UK weather from Dave Gregory, plus three e-mails all saying how grim it is back in the UK, have got me wondering - do we really want to go home!

Monday, 13 October 2008

50 Not Out


Almost another week rolls buy, the cliffs are still busy and the weather is still sunny. We have had one 10 minute shower (it didn't half come down - the early scooterists got well wetted) and it has been windy on and off, but I have climbed almost every day.
Two days ago we had a rest and visited 'Nicholas the Sponge Diver' and had a drink at his 'paradise taverna' on the remote north east coast of Kalymnos; Turkey looked no distance away at all across the water.
Yesterday we visited Dolphin Bay, a beside-the-seaside crag with a great ambience. We bumped into the FRCC contingent yet again (not sure who is following who) and the whole atmosphere was very convivial. They are all off home in two days - when we said we had over two weeks left mutterings of 'jammy beggars' were heard! Then it was back to Kastelli - uncharacturistically deserted this time to knock of five more routes to bring up my tally so far to 50!

Tuesday, 7 October 2008

Rock On Tommy!

A few of days later and we have the car (a bright yellow Fiat) and I have done a bit of climbing, 18 routes so far up to 6a. A quick storm has freshened things up nicely so climbing in the sun is a pleasure rather then a chore.

First thoughts, grades a bit soft and quality ratings a bit generous, we will soon see if they are representative - still a great spot though!

It has been real treat, can't remember that last time I went on a pure climbing holiday - and wasn't scurrying around checking stuff.

Today is Sherri's birthday so we went snorking, a novel experience and all a bit spooky, not sure what's lurking down there!

There and Back Again

The Gorgeous Maurienne  From Argentiere we headed over and through the mountains (Frejus Tunnel = €56) as the Galibier Pass was still closed...