A Day on the Grit

A hot Monday and a small team - Stanage far north was the chosen venue - it got it up to 29C in Sheffield, so shade was must. We wandered out beyond High Neb and settled on the Marble Wall area. After ticking a couple of of the popular classics I had a wander round and spotted a line or two that I was pretty sure hadn't been done. After the exceptionally wet spring, I was expecting the recessed area to be green but it wasn't too bad at all. A couple of hours later and we had six new (OK unrecorded) routes in the bag. The pick was Hidden Pleasures E2 5c (see photo) - a tricky little number. A bit of shoddy footwork and I was rewarded with the Gritstone Kiss, but it was worth it!
Further research has failed to find any mention of the routes so maybe they really are new - get in!

There and Back

The UKC/RF team have been and gone, the weather was kind and lots of excellent climbing got done. Overall impressions of the area appeared to be very positive; great scenery, brilliant routes and as ever, it was lovely and quiet. There were several highlights but the BBQ at Chez Arran (photo above) went down particularly well after a long hot day on the rock. The next few days are forecast to be showery so it looks like they timed it pretty well.
Our original booking runs out at the end of the week and Chez Arran is fully booked (a group of 16, including lots of children - arggghh!) so we are set to be homeless  ;-( After checking our options - the simplest thing appeared to be booking a flight back to the UK for 10 days; RyanAir: Carcassonne to East Midlands €12:99 each - all in - unbelievable!

Change Over

Colin has just had another six days with us and has climber ever one of them (I farmed him out to John Arran one day to give me a breather) and now he is trekking back north, with a big bag of butties and a song in his heart - UK bound. Today was really hot (35C briefly) to we went bouldering at Orlu which was a great call, a bit of a breeze from the river, and shade from the trees. It was really idyllic - even though we don't 'do' bouldering.
Tomorrow the UKC/UKH/RF team arrive for their weeks 'jolly' in the Ariege - the forecast is set fair - I am sure they will have a cracking time, with loads of climbing, partying and sun bathing - bloody holiday makers!

End of the Line?

The forecast was for rain later so a quick job was in order; check-out Roquefixada and had a look at a couple of other crags in the area - time well spent - the rain arrived bang on time.
The Ariege guide is progressing well, maybe another six months work should see it done.  It has been great living in the area and working on the book - so much easier then jetting backwards and forwards, especially considering this is such a lovely part of the world to spend a bit of time.
I wrote my 1st guidebook in 1991 - 21 years ago - I don't think I'll be taking on any new books, I must have done around 20 titles now - nor bad for a slow learner! That doesn't mean I am stopping just yet mind, those UK titles still need nurturing as does the Blanca, Lofoten and Cote d'Azur.

Master Blaster

Colin drove down from Darlington (via London) and a long one day haul from Le Harve to Ariege, so we have spent a few days getting him relaxed - and me knackered.
It is a while since I have climbed five days on the trot but it has been great, decent weather, and as ever; no-one around. We have alternated granite and limestone, and done about half a dozen routes each day - all very pleasant!
He is away over the hills to Spain tomorrow which will give me the chance to crack on with book (and have a lie-in) and anyway he will be back in a week for some more action.
The RockFax/UKC team are here in a couple of weeks, and will doubtless need pointers as to where to climb and what pics we need, and by then Peak Limestone should have been published - hopefully they will bring a copy down so I can get a look at it.
Then there is the Blanca rewrite which keeps nagging/nudging me - busy times.

Topsy Turvy

Left: Exporing upper Auzat - worth it for the views alone

When we arrived in Ariege, way back in February there were heaps of snow everywhere and a feeling that winter had only just cracked. March was hot, settled and dry, the south-facing cliffs were almost too hot; summer was on the way - or so we thought.
April has been a step backwards, cool and shower, with loads more fresh snow on the hills, almost down to the village on occasions.
Despite that it has been pleasure being in the mountains, everywhere is superbly quiet and work on the book has progressed steadily in the right direction. The Costa Blanca volume has sold out now so there is some urgency to get that out before the Autumn season begins - looks like a bit of application is required!

Right: Snowtime

Graham Lynch called round yesterday, we stopped with him and Christine on our 1st few visits to the area. I complemented him on his little guide to Niaux Limestone, which has been well received by the locals. It was nice to see some refreshing innovation in the design/layout and even a thanks in the credits. I wasn't aware that 20 months ago he pull a flake off when checking Baychon, the tumble resulted in a snapped femur and shattered elbow - ouch. He is on the road to recovery - but I need to be careful out there, it is a dangerous game this guidebook writing!
Colin arrives Sunday, doubtless he will be distracting me and dragging me up some big rock around here - can't wait!

No really!

Peak Limestone is away - two years and six weeks from start to finish - phew! Onwards and upwards, we checked out a crag near Ax Les Thermes yesterday, nice enough but a bugger to photo because of the trees. The roads were really busy, with it being Easter weekend, but there was no-one else up there.
I decided to go an have a poke around the bouldering at Orlu. I am no fan of bouldering (aka "playing on small rocks") but it was a magical spot, and I did a dozen (easy) problems - and enjoyed it - no, really.
A team of young Spanish lads were a short distance behind us on the circuit, I guess they were enjoying themselves - but do they need to be so bloody noisy?