New Routes, New Venues

Whilst we have been at ChezArran John has been disappearing off, and coming back late, working on a new route somewhere not far from home. A couple of days ago he asked if I wanted to go along to get involved with the 1st Ascent so I though hey-ho. Little did I know that the route was going to be called Le Trog and started in the back of one of the huge caves that riddle the area, or that it hadn't been cleaned yet.
The ascent was 'interesting', the 1st pitch (F6a) was a huge slabby corner, with a smattering of loose rock, draped with million year old cobwebs and completely smothered in fine dust. The 2nd pitch (F6b+) climbed a long wet groove and technical slab but at least there was some light there. The final pitch to the exit hole was a long diagonal to the crux moves  right at the top (F7a apparently - I declined to follow). A brilliant effort by John and once clean it might even become quite popular - though either way, I won't be going up there again!

A little video by Ben Lear of our escapade: "Le Trog" is rather neat.
    
Next Monday we are away to Sicily for a couple of weeks to meet a big jolly(?) team of the Sheffield Grumpies - looks like a great venue, lots of routes, decent spread of grades and a lovely setting. I am just hoping there isn't too much in the way of dust, loose rock and climbing in the dark!

Winter

Tarascon sur Ariège hasn't been a bad place to spend the winter - surrounded by the glittering snowy peaks of the high Pyrenees. According to local sources it has been the 'worst' winter for quite a few years though seen through eyes that have seen too many UK ones it has been pretty pleasant really. There have been a couple of short wet periods but we have managed to get out almost everyday. In less than two weeks we should be meeting a team from Sheffield in Sicily to sample another rapidly rising sun-rock venue - Bring it On!

The new Costa Blanca guide has been published around a week early - 1st reports are very positive - job well done by all involved!

Rockin' in the Free World

We have had a bit of an unsettled spell (much better than the UK though) so more snow-shoeing was in order with some fantastic conditions on offer - apparently two metres of snow have fallen on the upper slopes at Ax - and there is more on the way!

Left: snow-shoeing in perfect conditions at Ax les Thermes

Then things perked up nicely for the end of the month - it was a balmy 17C on the 1st of February which was a treat.

We have arranged to meet a jolly team from Sheffield in Sicily later this month, the guidebook has arrive (looks great with loads to go at) the flights and accommodation are organised; they are opening the campsite just for us! Now it is just a matter of getting a bit fitter to make the most of the visit - three days out on the local crags and a session on the bouldering wall have hopefully laid a small foundation.

Right: Mint conditions at Auzat

The Blanca guidebook should be printed in a couple of weeks - our biggest book ever. It has been out of  print for a good few months and the Spanish winter sun/rock season is in full swing - so lets hope it starts flying off the shelves. The Ariège guide appears to have been well received - even by the locals - which is nice.

Three in Ten

Peak Limestone

 May 2012  

 

Ariège 

December 2012

 

Costa Blanca 

February 2013

 

Time for a rest? I doubt it!

Different Strokes

A couple of days of sleet/snow/drizzle down at the level of the village (1700') meant it had to be worth a look up at the Beille plateau when the skies finally cleared. As expected it was -6C up at 6000' with blues skies a chill wind, and the whole area plastered under 3 feet of fresh snow - a true winter wonderland.
We borrowed Anne and Johns' snow-shoes (racquettes) and went off for a plodge around in the white stuff. It was surprisingly hard work as the snow was completely unconsolidated, though without the shoes it would have have been a waist-deep wading session. The scenery was something special, a huge white panorama and there wasn't a soul to be seen anywhere. It was a 1st for us, though I think it won't be a last!

Cool as....

Three and a half weeks in the Ariége, in the depths of winter, and it has been pretty damn pleasant. Very little rain so far, warm day-time temperatures and no snow - not yet anyway - the forecast suggests things might be going to change.

Left: Sherri on top of the Clot de Colombiere

Nights have been cool, the current record stands at 0.6C which isn't too bad. Regular checking of the weather back in the UK proves we aren't missing anything, it has sounded unremittingly wet, grey and miserable.

Right: Winter woods and stream

We have explored more of this great area, done a bit of climbing and work pretty solidly on the Costa Blanca guide - it goes to the printers in 10 days - as ever the final haul is a bit of a battle - but it will soon be out of the way. That will be three books produced in around 10 months - of course I have been working on them for several years but has still been the most productive period ever. A bit of a break is in order, a few places need visiting (climbing) - and there are other projects simmering away - all of which are Top Secret!

Happy New Year? Let's Hope So!

It has been a varied and interesting year, with extended periods in Kalymnos (about 3 months) and Ariège (about 4.5 months) plus quite a bit of time in the UK plus visits to Spain and even Turkey. With two books published (Peak Limestone and Ariège) and another just round the corner (the new Costa Blanca guide) it has may well have been my most productive year ever. I think a bit more 'me time' (as in more climbing!) might be on the horizon.


Left: me and White Cat

We didn't get to Norway this year which was a pity as it always a place we love to spend time, maybe next year we will get back to the superb mountains and fjords, the friendly locals (and not forgetting the lack of tourists).
Other possible places pencilled included Corsica and Sicily - a couple of spots that keep cropping up - and then back to the Alps - but not in July/August when it is hot, sweaty and crowded!

Right: Sherri and a black cat - Squeek!
 
We have missed Colins company over the past few months, he hasn't recovered too well from his bypass operation in the summer - here's hoping for a better 2013 for him, and peaceful one for the rest of us.

****   Happy New Year to all my readers - of both this Blog and the Guidebooks  ****