Beautiful Briançonaise

Autumn in Ailefroide

We moved a couple of hours over the mountains from the Maurienne to the Briançon area. We have stopped around here quite a few times in recent years, out of season the area is exceptionally quiet and the altitude (around 4500') means it is often pleasantly cool, especially when compared to the lowlands further west and south.

Mi-Nöel (5c+) Rocher Baron -
this one is quartzite!

There is an amazing variety of rock on offer in this Alpine orogeny collision zone with granite, gneiss, quartzite, limestone, conglomerate and probably some sandstone. There is also a very good spread of grades, from easy stuff for old guys to some seriously impressive crags and routes of every length from tiny up to major multi-pitch.
Then there are the passes, that allow you to get even higher, when it does warm up and a serious set of Via Ferrata to go at. Ailefoide has long been popular but the rest of the area much less so, which seems a bit odd.
Anyway it is onward now, Ariege next and next month a trip to exploring the Greek mainland with Colin.

Back to the Peace of the Maurienne

Above Saas Fee - 11,000+ feet

 A few days in France then a week in Switzerland gave a bit of time for the crowds to head for home and everywhere to start to quieten down. The time in Saas-Grund was great, it isn't the best climbing destination - but a small 'tourist tax' allows free access to the cable-cars, so we spent quite a bit of time high up, hiking the various high level trails.

Climbing in the Maurienne

The plan had been to head to Ponte Brolla and the Italian Lakes for some climbing, but the forecast was hot (28C) and prices seemed very expensive - still high season down there. After a bit of thought we decided to head back to the Maurienne, the deep valley running up to the Italian border north west of Turin.
We were here last year and were impressed with the peace, quiet and variety of climbing available. The face that we managed to get a six bed ski chalet for £18 a night was a major bonus - the beauty of being here out of season.

Col de Mont Cenis at the French/Italian border

A week into September and I have already done 36 routes - compared to 20 for the whole of July in the UK. For many years now I have found it much more motivating to explore new crags and poke around areas I don't know very well - I guess this a not very subtle way of hiding the 'decline into decrepitude'.

The Summer Without End Just Ended

Zuri - Catzilla, and regular morning visitor

Nine weeks in the UK passed as all things do - we enjoyed the time visiting our respective mums, climbing in the Peak with friends old and new, as well as getting some good walks in. The weather was pretty amazing - unrelentingly hot for almost the whole period we were home - for the climbing we had to seek out shade almost every day.

Colin Hughes - Zapple HVS 5b

Several local cats called in everyday - which is always a treat for us. We hoped that their owners didn't worry too much because they were 'off their food' when they returned home - oops.
When you are only home for two months out of twelve there are the inevitable visits to doctors, dentists and garages etc. - to get checked, tested, mended and patched with the aim of getting back on the road.

Les Chasseron: 5171'

Sherri's knee has been bothering her for about 10 months - amazingly she managed to see a doctor, get x-rays, see a surgeon, get a MRI scan, see the surgeon again, see a physio and start exercises all in the space of three weeks - so far the Cortisone and exercise appear to be working - fingers crossed.

I also managed to buy a new car and new camera - also inevitable some cynics would say - then it was off again. We sailed Hull to Zeebrugge, spent a day in central France then a few days in Pontarlier - 18 routes and an excellent ridge-walk so far. Tomorrow we head for Switzerland and Saas Grund - snow is forecast - well it is August!!!!

Five Weeks and Counting

The End of another Hot One

Redcar beach and steelworks

 Five weeks since we sailed back into Hull and it has been quite a summer - hot (really hot) and unrelentingly sunny. Apparently it hasn't been quite has hot as 1976, but it has come pretty close.
Climbing has always been in the shade, and on the limestone, it has been just to hot to contemplate climbing in the sun or on the Gritstone.
We have broken the time with trips up north to visit our respective mums and even had a three day break in Hull which was very pleasant, despite being the hottest place in the country. A bit of a sea breeze on days at Flamborough Head and Spurn Point made it bearable.

Zuri in the bird-house

Although it isn't even August yet thoughts have turned to the Autumn and what we might do. Current ideas are centring on maybe heading back to Switzerland initially, getting high to avoid the final heat of the summer. Then it could be onto Briançon, an area we have grown really fond of - quiet, high and with lots of good climbing - I am wondering if a Rockfax to the area might be a suitable project for next winter.

Back to Burning Blighty

Seven Deadly Virtues (E1 5b) Harpur Hill

After a couple of months in Switzerland we headed back to the UK. The weather in the Alps had been unseasonably cool and unsettled for the whole of our trip, although this may have been a blessing in disguise - climbing conditions were perfect and everywhere was lovely and quiet.
By complete contrast the weather in UK has been quite bizarre, unrelentingly hot, blue and dry. With temperatures regularly in the high twenties climbing has always involved seeking out shade.

Harpur Hill Blue Lagoon - looks inviting

Harpur Hill Quarry has been the crag of choice, usually it is a bit of a dismal spot, but with the sustained good weather the place is bone dry, and may routes are in excellent condition.
There has been a regular and large turn-out of the "Grumpies" - the group of retirees who climb every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. (Apparently I am too Grumpy to qualify for membership!!!)

Full team turn-out at Pic Tor, Matlock

I find it odd that we are away for 10 months, then when we call back we see the same people, meeting at the same (excellent) cafe, going to the same crags and often doing the same routes as a year ago, we will join in for the summer before we head off again  - though I may need to investigate a new car first!

A month in Switzerland

Gornergrat - rammed

A month passed in Switzerland and it has been very pleasant, climbing, hiking, chilling and even doing a bit of touristing. Compared to last year the weather has been pretty unsettled for the whole period, though on the plus side, it hasn't been too hot - last May/June was withering. Around eighty routes completed so far and some great crags visited.

What has been pleasant has been the lack of people, with the notable exception of Zermatt/Gornergrat (top right) which was packed - 90% of the tourists appeared to be Chinese/Japanese ticking Europe - next stop Venice or Santorini maybe?

Arolla - tranquillity

We need to think about heading homeward soon - 10 months since we locked the door and headed south. The car needs a service and so de we - doctors, dentist etc - we need to get an overhaul ready for the the next trip - I wonder where that will be to, I am sure Sherri has some plans?

Swish Swiss Action

Mont Collon

After Colin left we spent another 10 days around Briançon enjoying the varied climbing, the fantastic scenery and quietness of the 'between seasons' time. Then it was time to head north and east towards Switzerland.
It is five years since we were last here - on the previous occasion, in September, the weather was unsettled and cold - at the end of a 10 day spell we decided we had done with camping, and we haven't pitched a tent since - in fact we sold all the camping gear once we got back home!
We spent a week in Martigny, which pleasant, and not too warm, unlike this time last year in France. Then we headed up to Arolla, a place I had read about back in the 1969 and always fancied a look around. On the day we arrived I did a clutch of routes on the local crag, which brought my tally for May up to 102 - that's something that doesn't happen very often.

Amnother gorgeous Swiss meadow

We stayed in a delightful old converted Swiss syle house, enjoyed the cool weather up at 6000' and had a walk up towards the mighty Mont Collon - in another life I would liked to have a crack at the striking line of the North West Couloir which splits the face!