Another One Done

Ten days in Kalymnos was a necessity to get the last few bits and pieces for the new Rockfax guidebook to the island, due out later this year. I was rather concerned, as I had been told by a couple of people that I wasn't welcome - for having the audacity to write a book about a place where we have spent three years living - and climbing. In the end all the locals we know were as friendly as ever and super supportive. Plus of course the cats were a delight.

Sunset from Basbis Bar - mid-March

We had a lot of discussions with Sue and Steve McDonnel of The Glaros Bar - who have lived there for about 30 years - about the history of the various bolt fund initiatives and the shenanigans that have gone on down the years. Anyway - funds raised from sales of every copy of the new book will go into the Glaros Bar bolt fund, towards the equipping and re-equipping of routes on this magnificent climbing destination.

Back and Forth

Tenerife North - a different world

 The three weeks in Tenerife were very pleasant - a nice change from the wintry mountains. The island is an odd place, a mixture of extreme aridity, volcanic wilderness and semi-tropical paradise.
The packed tourist resorts are all in the 'arid zone' - I guess as nothing much will grow down there, farming tourists is as good as anything. At peak times there were 100+ flights a day arriving at each of the islands airports - that's a lot of people.

Col de Puymorens

The climbing is pretty much as I recall from 25 years ago - good but not brilliant - the island is much more a holiday destination than a climbing one. Interestingly, the majority of the good climbing is in the higher grades, some of the hardest climbs look truly superb. In general the easier stuff is short, polished and undergraded! The local climbers who are interested in attracting visitors are missing a trick here. There are some great areas at Las Canadas for example that would make excellent lower grader 'Escuelas'. Currently they are just set up for top-roping - which appears to be a bit of a waste.