Cyprus - that's Different

Cyprus - nice a quite away from the coast

Our 90 days in Schengen were up, so we had to leave Kalymnos - cheers for that all you small minded Brexiteers. We needed to make a decision, and returning to the UK in November was bottom of the list. There are four destination that are in the EU and aren't in Schengen - Croatia, Romania, Bulgaria and Cyprus - and a visit to any of these is allowed for 90 days and it doesn't count towards your tally. Of the four it turns out that Cyprus is a good winter destination so we hopped on two planes - that's been a while - and checked into a pad near Paphos for six weeks.

Stormy weather

First impressions are very favourable - the weather is mild, everyone speaks English and they drive on the left. The coastal area is very busy, with lots of modern developments - but inland is a whole different world. The island isn't a main-stream climbing destination but there is certainly enough to pass a few weeks, the three main areas for sport climbing are about thirty minutes drive from where we are stopping - though one of those is the reserve of the hard men.

Ancient remains.

And then there is the history/archaeology - the place has been inhabited for millennia and has been a crossroads for the Eastern Mediterranean. There are the most amazing remains from the Greeks and Romans and all those who came later. We have already visited the Tombs of the Kings and Old Paphos and there is more to come.

Kalytastic

The UK in Autumn

 So we headed back to the UK from Coatia via a lazy three day drive through Slovenia, Austria, Germany and Holland, followed by an overnight crossing to Hull - back to sunny (not!) Sheffield. We only had six days at home, and the weather was best described as 'mixed' - it rained every day but the sun came out most days too. 

Colin cane down for three days and we had a couple of great autumnal walks, with spectacular colours and a lot of folks - Wyming Brook and Padley Gorge. Then he dropped us off at Leeds/Bradford airport for a easy flight down to Kos on an almost empty Jet2 flight. 

Kalymnos in Autumn

Six weeks less than two years and we rolled back into Kalymnos - we never knew what was trundling down the line when we left back in 2019. Apparently the autumn here has been the busiest season ever, with crowds, queues and the locals making up for lost time. Our first week was still busy - 40 scooters at Ghost Kitchen one day - but week two has been remarkably quiet - just how we like it.

North and South

The battering roaring blast of the Bora

Our continued exploration of Croatia get rather blown off track by the Bora, a cold blustery wind that blows out of the interior and across the Dalmation coast. It started blowing in Baška and 12 days later, down at Paklenica it was still roaring - they say wind can drive you mad - they may well be right. Unsure of how long it might blow for or how widespread it might me, be we decided on a rethink - and Kalymnos in November came out top of the list of Plan Bs.

Initially we thought about driving, or flying from Croatia but both were problematic especially as we would probably be trying to do the return journey in December. After a lot of mulling we decided the easiest option was to head back to the UK, get our flu jabs and then jump on one of the many near-empty planes flying down to Kos to bring tourists home at the end of the season.

We have about four weeks left in Schengen in the time up to the middle of January - the current plan is to spend them in Kalymnos then relocate to Cyprus - which like Croatia has a separate 90 day limit. We have never been to Cyprus so that is a plus, the winters are mild and there is some climbing - that almost sounds like a plan.

Brexit Bollies and Options Galore

Rovinj - Croatia

 We arrived in Europe about eight weeks ago which means that we have already used up 2/3 of our allotted time in the Schengen Area - what a pain! We visited the Spanish and the French Pyrenees, the Briançon and Maurienne areas and Arco/Lake Garda in Italy.

And then - far too soon, it was time to exit Schengen - saving about 30 days of our entitlement in case we want to visit Kalymnos in the autumn, or if we need to head back to the UK.

So we got all our documents in order and rolled up to the Croatian border - where precisily nothing was checked, no passport stamps, no questions asked - all a bit of a surprise.

First impressions are favourable, everbody speaks English, the cost of living is cheap, the place is very civilised and there is some half-decent climbing. 

We have three months at our disposal, so we intend to explore the place from end to end climbing along the way.

After three months we can dip back into the Schengen area or head to another of the countries that are in the EU but not in Schegen - Hungary, Bulgaria and Cyprus. Or even visit the Balkan states.

So in many respects Brexit has been a sorry mess, but it has thrown up new options and tempted us to new places, which is the real positive to have come out of it - thanks Boris and your bunch of charlatans.

Wandering Eastwards

Aussois - high and cool

It is six weeks since we docked in Santander and we continue our slow ramble eastwards via the Pyrenees and then the Alps: so far we have visited Panticosa (Spain), the Ariege, Briançon, Puy St Vincent then Aussois and Avreiux in the Maurienne. Generally we have have managed to stay high and avoid the worst of the heat, Aussois (4,800') was especially good with chilly nights and great sleeping conditions throughout our stay.

Mont Blanc from the Col de Galibier

With it still being August everywhere is still very busy - but hopefully another week and the arrival of September should finally sort that out as everybody goes back to work and school.

Our onward plans including eventually heading to non-Schengen Croatia so as to extend our time in Europe - let's see how that goes.

Slumming it in Spain

Panticosa, Spanish Pyrenees

 When we headed back to the UK in mid-March, the 'plan' (if it can be called such) was to quarantine for 10 days, get our first jabs, wait twelve weeks for our second, wait two more weeks, then head off again - around four months in total. In the event, sixteen weeks after arriving we were on a boat heading back across Biscay to resume our travels where we left off!

We don't normally 'do' high summer in Europe as it is just too hot but needs must - we spent our first week at Panticosa in the Spanish Pyrenees, at just under 4000' the days were hot (30C) but at least the nights were lovely and cool at around 13C.

Onward plans include the Ariege, Briançon and the Maurienne, beyond that things are 'flexible'. Of course there is always the Elephant in the Room - our 90 day limit in the Schengen Area - but like Baldrick "we have a cunning plan".

Grand ont'Gower

Sherri taking in the ambiance at Watch House Slab

 So two weeks after getting our second jab - two and half weeks ahead of schedule we decide it was time to go somewhere - anywhere actually - the need to get away was driving us up the wall. A trip to Portugal, the only 'Green' destination in Europe had been pencilled in to use the last 17 days of our EU 90/180 allowance. Fortunately we didn't book anything as it turned back to Amber - had we gone we would had the choices of i) dash for home ii) quarantine at home or iii) stay put. 

Rhossili Beach - the best in the UK?

The stunning line of Scavenger VS 4c

So Plan B was a couple of weeks bolt clipping in South Wales using the recent Rockfax guide to sport climbing in the area. When we looked into it in more detail we decide we could cope with a couple of weeks on the Gower - where there is plenty of climbing, both sport and trad, great beaches and somewhere we could actually find some accommodation.

In the event is was a good call - not too much travelling, some excellent climbing, great weather and a nice pad just outside the 'Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty'.

Downsides? Everywhere was pretty damn busy - (though climbers were noticeable by there absence) - the minor roads on the Gower are regularly log-jammed with buses, lorries, campers and queues of car which makes for slow going. Also almost all the climbing areas are approached downhill which leaves a knackering walk out at the end of the day!

Oh - and I almost forgot the BIG news - June 1st/2nd we went over to Doncaster with Graham and Helen for a night in the Hilton Hotel at the racecourse and to 'tie the knot'. Engaged for 30+ years, we decided as we had a bit of time on out hands....... :-) A grand do!

UK Okay?

Another wander along Stanage

 I haven't Blogged for a month or so for the obvious reason that not much has been happening. The coldest April for sixty years gave way to the wettest May since records began - 130 years ago. With that being the case there was little incentive to travel away from the Peak, and not much enthusiasm for climbing locally either to be honest. We have kept busy with local walks and the odd day trip out to Derbyshire plus some long-overdue DIY on the flat but it has felt very much like we have been kicking our heels waiting for something to happen.

Sherri striding out.

Hordes on Stanage

Our second jab was brought forward by a couple of weeks which was great - we had to go to Chesterfield to get it done, but now we are only 10 days away from the best protection the vaccine can give. Foreign travel is still advised against - France and Germany have recently banned UK travellers because of the Indian Variant - so it still looks like we won't be rushing off anytime soon.

In other news we are getting married in a couple of days - we have been engaged for over thirty years - at least one positive thing to come out of the pandemic is that we have had a bit of time to get things sorted. We originally booked the date in the UK last summer, and had half a plan to try and get hitched in Gibraltar in the meantime but then all the borders closed, so it was back to Plan A.

A foreign honeymoon would be nice - 'anywhere away from here' in the words of Rag and Bone Man/Pinks' recent song.

Peak Performance

Nemes Sabe (HVS 5a) Bamford Edge

 After getting back to the UK we spent ten days in quarantine, had our Covid-19 injections at the Sheffield Arena (super efficient) and then had three weeks of avoiding people whilst out immunity built up. Then it was back to (distanced) socialising, a bit of climbing and working on the next edition of Eastern Grit, due out sometime in the next 12 months.

The weather in the UK has been pretty remarkable, after a couple of hot days, it has been consistently cold, with night frosts and clear blue days - the coldest April for 60 years according to the weather people. It will be six more weeks before we get our second injection and two weeks after that before we are good to go - we just have to wait and see what state the world will be in by the start of July - at least our 90 days outside the EU will be up and we can go somewhere nice :-)

Sitting and Waiting

Curbar Edge

The journey back to the UK was pretty uneventful, a steady ride across Spain, a long rough crossing of Biscay then a night-time sprint back to quarantine in Sheffield. We did our 10 days staying close to home, then the day after we were 'released' we drove over to the Sheffield Arena and got out first dose of the Oxford AstraZenica vaccine. Sherri had a stiff arm for a couple of days - I was right as rain. Eleven weeks until we get the booster, but our protection should be kicking in about now (10 days since we had the jab) and in another 10 we should be safe enough to get back to a bit more normality. Travel is not going to be possible for quite a while but already some countries have said they will welcome vaccinated travellers - Greece and Portugal for starters - that will do us!

Sheffield parks - heaving!

One of our best selling books, Eastern Grit, will probably sell out within the next 18 months so we would have needed to be back in the UK to crack on with refreshing it even without the virus. That has given us plenty of reasons to get our exercise out in the Peak - though always avoiding people, and it has to be said - it is pretty damn busy out there.

I can't recall the last time we spent an Easter in the UK but needs must!

Homeward Bound

Winter in Spain - same as it ever was

A year ago we were stopping at Collbato under Montserrat mountain in Catalunya, as the Covid 19 tidal wave was about to break over us and the rest of the world. We have spent the intervening 12 months trying to make the most of a tough situation - with travel restrictions, lock-downs and a general disruption to the freewheeling lifestyle we have enjoyed over the past 10 years.

Climbing at Montesa

The first lockdown we spent in the Ariege - possibly the safest place in France at the time, the restrictions meant we had to stay within 1km of Chez Arran, but the weather was good, the shops were fully stocked and there was no-one around. Then when we were 'released' in June we got back on the road, slowly climbed our way north to the UK for the summer, then southwards again to Spain by October.

The second lockdown we spent in Valencia and the restrictions in place (curfew, facemasks, closed cafes and restaurants etc.) hardly affected us at all to be honest. We climbed, walked, worked on the next Costa Blanca guidebook and generally enjoyed another winter in the sun.

Beach bums for the winter

BUT - with Brexit we have to be out of the EU by the end of this month, plus we need to be back in the UK to get our Covid Vaccinations. We are not looking forward to the next three months, a trip across Biscay, the UK still in lockdown, the need to quarantine after travelling and stay out of everyones' way for another three+ weeks after that, but we have to bite the bullet. Once we have our second jab in June things might start returning to a semblance of normality. Cyprus and Greece are already suggesting tourists who have been vaccinated will be allowed in from early summer - bring it on!

Still Here, Still Waiting

Our pad in the sun - that will do

Five weeks since we moved from La Mata to Mascarat, and it has been very pleasant: nice weather, a great pad, a bit of climbing and a few local felines to keep us occupied. I have had a stack of work to get on with, both on the Blanca guidebook and on a variety of crags for the Rockkfax App. We have also done a load of walking, locally and further afield.

Sunset over the Puig Campana

I got the call for my first Covid 19 jab back in the UK two weeks ago - I'm glad to report the surgery have assured me I can get it as soon as we are back home. We have already booked a ferry: Santander to Portsmouth for the middle of March, though technically we still can't travel across borders in Spain - hopefully that will change in the next fortnight.

Of course we are supposed to be out of the EU by the end of March (Brexit) but I found something on the Spanish Gov website that said if you were here within the 90 day limit and got stuck by the "State of Alarm" this would automatically be extended by 12 weeks - to be deducted off your next 90 days. Useful!

So, still here, still waiting and still enjoying it.

Stuck in the Middle with You

Stormy skies over the Costa Blanca - very appropriate

 So after thirteen weeks we left our quiet corner of La Mata and moved up the coast ninety minutes to a rather grand pad at Mascarat, just south of Calpe. We actually stopped here 18 months ago, so we contacted the owner and he gave us a good deal for an initial six week let.

It is good to be back in the hills and to get some climbing done too, every where it pretty quite with few tourists and even fewer climbs, though the last two Sunday's have seen Toix West packed with around 40 climbers - courses I assume - Social Distancing didn't look too evident. Currently the borders are closed, there is a curfew 22:00 to 06:00, bars and restaurants are shut (except for takeaways) plus social mixing is discouraged - none of that affect us much.

Mascarat - there could be (much) worse places to be stuck

 

So an overview: the UK is currently in lockdown, you need a negative Covid test to enter France with talks of a lockdown there too, and cases are rising steeply in Spain - after all the Christmas get-togethers - who would have thought it? The latest plan floated by the UK Gov is to quarantine all arrivals at hotels at their own expense for ten days - £1500+ was a quoted figure. Fair to say travel is being discouraged.

I am expecting to get the call to be vaccinated sometime soon, but can't see any point in trying to get back to the UK just at the moment - I think we are much safer sitting it out in Spain, for at least another month. The weather is great, avoiding people is easy and I can plug away at the next edition of Costa Blanca Climbs, probably due out towards the end of next year. 

Of course the elephant in the room is that we are only allowed to be here in Europe for 90 days (Brexit!!!) so I guess our hand will be forced not too far down the line.