2019 INCOMING

2018 gone, 2019 just over the horizon, lets hope it is another one filled with travel, climbing, good friends, sunshine and adventures. Best wishes to friends far and wide and anyone who has bought one of my books this year - we couldn't do it without you.

Greece to France (via the UK)

Don't go - stay with us- pleeease

We sent Colin heading back to Manchester and nearly flew back into Kalymnos. In the event the plane turned back just short and several hours later we arrive in Kos courtesy of a rescheduled Sky Express flight and via two visits to their Executive Lounge.
We had another two weeks in Kaly, everything was very quiet - the weather was less good than we have come to expect down the years - though MUCH better than the UK. We climbed, wandered, socialised and looked after a host of cats - times are getting harder for them now all the tourists have left.
Then it was time to head back to the UK, in four days we picked up the car, now fixed, visited my mother, had a day at the climbing wall, packed the car and made it to Hull for the evening ferry.

Belle Burgundy

The crossing was a bit 'lumpy' as the Captain called it (Beaufort Severe Gale Force 9) then headed to Burgundy for a look at an area I have never climbed - the event the weather has been a bit crap - I know it is December but really!
Ariege next with plans to head down to the Costa Blanca to start a rewrite on my best selling guidebook to the area - no rest for the busy!

Greece - off the Beaten Track

Varasova - seaside fun

Don't get me wrong, I love Kalymnos, but it does get a bit busy (OK very busy) at times. Last year we decided to escape to Leonidio in the peak late October season - and it turned out that was just as bad with 50 cars parked under Mad Rock some days - bah, humbug!

Fyrgani - Day 1, Crag 1

So this year I thought we could try something a little different, I picked five crags with a selection of easier routes in central and northern Greece, Colin flew into Athens for a fortnight, and off we headed in search of quiet cliffs and new adventures.

Meteora - pebble-tastic

Frygani, Kalogria, Varasova, Mytikas and Meteora? I'm guessing that like me you have never heard of them, well except for the last in the list, which is well known as a UNESCO world heritage site.
12 days and around 50 routes later I can report that there are great cliffs in Greece where you won't see another climber, let alone have to queue to get on your chosen route. Accommodation was sorted through Booking.com and AirBnB and in most cases was inexpensive and close to the climbing.
Frygani is a conglomerate crag 30 miles west of Corinth, east facing with 40 routes and five minutes from the road. It has huge potential for new routes.
Kalogria is a set of cliffs above a big lagoon which is an internationally important bird reserve. 100+ routes across a variety of cliffs. Mozzies can be a problem because of the lagoon but there is some great climbing on offer.

Mytikas - peaceful perfection

Varasova is an old school venue, much used by Athens climbers over the years. Right by the sea, and a selection of restaurants there are 90 routes to go at, from short and sharp right up to 18 pitches.
Mytikas - and idyllic crag with 30 routes, only seconds from the road. It overlooks the bay and town of the same name and gets afternoon shade.
Meteora - a huge and fascinating area with who knows how many routes. There are single and muti-pitch on a host of towers and the bolting can be a little (or very) spaced, especially on the the older routes. The rock is a very solid conglomerate, billions of rounded pebbles from acorn-sized to huge - bring your stiff boots.

Greece - Islands and Mainlands

A private Boeing 737 - that will do nicely

 Autumn well under way so it must be time to head east - Kalymnos Calling. To be totally honest I wasn't 100% keen on going because of the ill will our new book had apparently generated in a few disgruntled souls. But Sherri wanted to see her cats and we both wanted to see out long-term Greek friends so we booked flights from Carcassonne to Stansted to Kos. The second leg was with Jet2 and we had the plane to ourselves which was a novel experience. It was headed down to bring the package holiday people home so would be full on the return journey.

Pocket Wall - form an orderly queue

Kalmnos was very busy, especially considering it is late October - possibly the busiest season ever according to sources on the island - may the new book had a positive effect after all.

Our personal tax-boat on the way

As ever we cast around to find quiet crags, there is nearly always somewhere available. Christian Lemrich's new crag at Palinisos fitted the bill perfectly - reached by a 5 minute boat ride, north-facing and 14 routes from 5a to 5c, up to 30m long and like the plane, we had it to ourselves.
At the weekend we fly up to Athens to meet Colin for a couple of weeks exploring some of the Mainland crags in the centre and the north of the country, hopefully including the mythical Meteora - looking forward to it a lot.

There and Back

Rescued from the fire

We had planned to fly home to the UK for a week, so we could be in the country to keep half an eye on my mum, while my sister flew to Dubai for a week to visit her daughter who teaches out there.
Then on the Monday morning a fire in the bins at Barry d'en Bas scorched the side of our car - if the locals hadn't alerted us and Sherri hadn't been so quick the whole thing might have gone up in smoke - a really close call - and the first new car I have ever owned- typical!

Sunset at Zeebrugge

After a lot of mulling our options we decided the least disruptive course of action was to take the car home to get it sorted - we hadn't planned to drive back until next year.
So two days later it was Orleans > Paris > Zeebrugge > Hull > Catterick for fish and chip breakfast a couple of hours earlier than it would have been if we had flown up!

Great Harry (VS 4c)

After a couple of days we headed back to Sheffield to meet Colin and do a bit of climbing/DIY/medical, and then hopped on the train to Stansted, and back to Chez Arran eight days after we left.
 First job the next morning was White Cat to the vets for another ear operation - the cancer had returned so the ear had to go - 'streamlining' the vet called it. It was very stressful for all involved - I think we all need a bit of quiet downtime now for a few days.

Beautiful Briançonaise

Autumn in Ailefroide

We moved a couple of hours over the mountains from the Maurienne to the Briançon area. We have stopped around here quite a few times in recent years, out of season the area is exceptionally quiet and the altitude (around 4500') means it is often pleasantly cool, especially when compared to the lowlands further west and south.

Mi-Nöel (5c+) Rocher Baron -
this one is quartzite!

There is an amazing variety of rock on offer in this Alpine orogeny collision zone with granite, gneiss, quartzite, limestone, conglomerate and probably some sandstone. There is also a very good spread of grades, from easy stuff for old guys to some seriously impressive crags and routes of every length from tiny up to major multi-pitch.
Then there are the passes, that allow you to get even higher, when it does warm up and a serious set of Via Ferrata to go at. Ailefoide has long been popular but the rest of the area much less so, which seems a bit odd.
Anyway it is onward now, Ariege next and next month a trip to exploring the Greek mainland with Colin.

Back to the Peace of the Maurienne

Above Saas Fee - 11,000+ feet

 A few days in France then a week in Switzerland gave a bit of time for the crowds to head for home and everywhere to start to quieten down. The time in Saas-Grund was great, it isn't the best climbing destination - but a small 'tourist tax' allows free access to the cable-cars, so we spent quite a bit of time high up, hiking the various high level trails.

Climbing in the Maurienne

The plan had been to head to Ponte Brolla and the Italian Lakes for some climbing, but the forecast was hot (28C) and prices seemed very expensive - still high season down there. After a bit of thought we decided to head back to the Maurienne, the deep valley running up to the Italian border north west of Turin.
We were here last year and were impressed with the peace, quiet and variety of climbing available. The face that we managed to get a six bed ski chalet for £18 a night was a major bonus - the beauty of being here out of season.

Col de Mont Cenis at the French/Italian border

A week into September and I have already done 36 routes - compared to 20 for the whole of July in the UK. For many years now I have found it much more motivating to explore new crags and poke around areas I don't know very well - I guess this a not very subtle way of hiding the 'decline into decrepitude'.

The Summer Without End Just Ended

Zuri - Catzilla, and regular morning visitor

Nine weeks in the UK passed as all things do - we enjoyed the time visiting our respective mums, climbing in the Peak with friends old and new, as well as getting some good walks in. The weather was pretty amazing - unrelentingly hot for almost the whole period we were home - for the climbing we had to seek out shade almost every day.

Colin Hughes - Zapple HVS 5b

Several local cats called in everyday - which is always a treat for us. We hoped that their owners didn't worry too much because they were 'off their food' when they returned home - oops.
When you are only home for two months out of twelve there are the inevitable visits to doctors, dentists and garages etc. - to get checked, tested, mended and patched with the aim of getting back on the road.

Les Chasseron: 5171'

Sherri's knee has been bothering her for about 10 months - amazingly she managed to see a doctor, get x-rays, see a surgeon, get a MRI scan, see the surgeon again, see a physio and start exercises all in the space of three weeks - so far the Cortisone and exercise appear to be working - fingers crossed.

I also managed to buy a new car and new camera - also inevitable some cynics would say - then it was off again. We sailed Hull to Zeebrugge, spent a day in central France then a few days in Pontarlier - 18 routes and an excellent ridge-walk so far. Tomorrow we head for Switzerland and Saas Grund - snow is forecast - well it is August!!!!

Five Weeks and Counting

The End of another Hot One

Redcar beach and steelworks

 Five weeks since we sailed back into Hull and it has been quite a summer - hot (really hot) and unrelentingly sunny. Apparently it hasn't been quite has hot as 1976, but it has come pretty close.
Climbing has always been in the shade, and on the limestone, it has been just to hot to contemplate climbing in the sun or on the Gritstone.
We have broken the time with trips up north to visit our respective mums and even had a three day break in Hull which was very pleasant, despite being the hottest place in the country. A bit of a sea breeze on days at Flamborough Head and Spurn Point made it bearable.

Zuri in the bird-house

Although it isn't even August yet thoughts have turned to the Autumn and what we might do. Current ideas are centring on maybe heading back to Switzerland initially, getting high to avoid the final heat of the summer. Then it could be onto Briançon, an area we have grown really fond of - quiet, high and with lots of good climbing - I am wondering if a Rockfax to the area might be a suitable project for next winter.

Back to Burning Blighty

Seven Deadly Virtues (E1 5b) Harpur Hill

After a couple of months in Switzerland we headed back to the UK. The weather in the Alps had been unseasonably cool and unsettled for the whole of our trip, although this may have been a blessing in disguise - climbing conditions were perfect and everywhere was lovely and quiet.
By complete contrast the weather in UK has been quite bizarre, unrelentingly hot, blue and dry. With temperatures regularly in the high twenties climbing has always involved seeking out shade.

Harpur Hill Blue Lagoon - looks inviting

Harpur Hill Quarry has been the crag of choice, usually it is a bit of a dismal spot, but with the sustained good weather the place is bone dry, and may routes are in excellent condition.
There has been a regular and large turn-out of the "Grumpies" - the group of retirees who climb every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. (Apparently I am too Grumpy to qualify for membership!!!)

Full team turn-out at Pic Tor, Matlock

I find it odd that we are away for 10 months, then when we call back we see the same people, meeting at the same (excellent) cafe, going to the same crags and often doing the same routes as a year ago, we will join in for the summer before we head off again  - though I may need to investigate a new car first!

A month in Switzerland

Gornergrat - rammed

A month passed in Switzerland and it has been very pleasant, climbing, hiking, chilling and even doing a bit of touristing. Compared to last year the weather has been pretty unsettled for the whole period, though on the plus side, it hasn't been too hot - last May/June was withering. Around eighty routes completed so far and some great crags visited.

What has been pleasant has been the lack of people, with the notable exception of Zermatt/Gornergrat (top right) which was packed - 90% of the tourists appeared to be Chinese/Japanese ticking Europe - next stop Venice or Santorini maybe?

Arolla - tranquillity

We need to think about heading homeward soon - 10 months since we locked the door and headed south. The car needs a service and so de we - doctors, dentist etc - we need to get an overhaul ready for the the next trip - I wonder where that will be to, I am sure Sherri has some plans?

Swish Swiss Action

Mont Collon

After Colin left we spent another 10 days around Briançon enjoying the varied climbing, the fantastic scenery and quietness of the 'between seasons' time. Then it was time to head north and east towards Switzerland.
It is five years since we were last here - on the previous occasion, in September, the weather was unsettled and cold - at the end of a 10 day spell we decided we had done with camping, and we haven't pitched a tent since - in fact we sold all the camping gear once we got back home!
We spent a week in Martigny, which pleasant, and not too warm, unlike this time last year in France. Then we headed up to Arolla, a place I had read about back in the 1969 and always fancied a look around. On the day we arrived I did a clutch of routes on the local crag, which brought my tally for May up to 102 - that's something that doesn't happen very often.

Amnother gorgeous Swiss meadow

We stayed in a delightful old converted Swiss syle house, enjoyed the cool weather up at 6000' and had a walk up towards the mighty Mont Collon - in another life I would liked to have a crack at the striking line of the North West Couloir which splits the face!

"50 Years Ago Today"

Big Chris and Smaller Colin - 50 years on and still getting wet!

Colin was heading back from Spain to the UK so he called in and we spent 10 days climbing together - initially at Orgon - and later around Briançon. The weather was a little unsettled but we managed nine days on the rock and around 40 routes.
Part way through the trip - 5th of May to be precise - it was out 50th anniversary - I first climbed with him at Brimham Rocks on the 5th May 1968. He followed me up Lichen Slab (VDiff) and Birch Tree Wall (VS) in his farm boots.
Half a century on and we still love it!

The Seasons Swing

DEEP snow on the Col de Palhiers

 And so back to the Ariege for a couple of weeks. Apparently while we were in Greece and Turkey it was exceptionally cold and unsettled in the Pyrenees - the spring was up to four weeks late according to some sources.
Right on time, the sun came out and the temperatures shot up, 27C in the valley was a bit of a surprise. Climbing, hiking and planning the onward trip - back to the UK but looking to take six to eight weeks over it and visit as many crags as possible on the way - no plans for the summer yet.

Summer is here!

The bumper new Kalymnos guide is due out in a  couple of weeks - as expected the news of its imminent publication caused a bit of a brouhaha. That is a word taught to me by the late Walt Unsworth when my first ever guidebook - the Costa Blanca was published way back in May 1990. In the intervening 28 years and 25 guidebooks later, virtually ever one has upset somebody - we were even accused of destroying the volunteer guidebook effort in the UK.
In the end, the sky didn't fall in, there were no losers and the winners were the guidebook buying public as everybody else raised their game - long may that continue to be the case.

A Tiny Trip to Turkey

Posh Turkish accommodation at Kemer (€23 a night)

 With the Kalymnos guidebook away to the printers and just for a change of scene we thought we would take a trip to Turkey and specifically to visit Geyikbayiri, to check out what is supposed to be the country's premier sport climbing venue.
We caught ferries Kalymnos to Kos and on to Bodrum, all very easy and efficient. After a night in Bodrum we found a hire car company, picked up a slightly tatty Renault, and six hours later rolled into Kemer. The accommodation there was best described as impressive - possibly the classiest place we have ever stopped, for a meagre €23 a night - astounding.

Deserted beach at Olympos

After four days there - and an abortive attempt to climb as Olympos (road closed for resurfacing) we moved to Geyikbayiri. Booking.com is currently banned in Turkey so we used Airbnb and ended up with a big house up the mountains - it looked like the owner would be back any minute as it was filled with all manor of junk!
The climbing was excellent, the area was pretty quiet and the novelty of having to set a fire everyday to keep warm was interesting - it took me back 50+ years to my childhood.

Another One Done

Ten days in Kalymnos was a necessity to get the last few bits and pieces for the new Rockfax guidebook to the island, due out later this year. I was rather concerned, as I had been told by a couple of people that I wasn't welcome - for having the audacity to write a book about a place where we have spent three years living - and climbing. In the end all the locals we know were as friendly as ever and super supportive. Plus of course the cats were a delight.

Sunset from Basbis Bar - mid-March

We had a lot of discussions with Sue and Steve McDonnel of The Glaros Bar - who have lived there for about 30 years - about the history of the various bolt fund initiatives and the shenanigans that have gone on down the years. Anyway - funds raised from sales of every copy of the new book will go into the Glaros Bar bolt fund, towards the equipping and re-equipping of routes on this magnificent climbing destination.

Back and Forth

Tenerife North - a different world

 The three weeks in Tenerife were very pleasant - a nice change from the wintry mountains. The island is an odd place, a mixture of extreme aridity, volcanic wilderness and semi-tropical paradise.
The packed tourist resorts are all in the 'arid zone' - I guess as nothing much will grow down there, farming tourists is as good as anything. At peak times there were 100+ flights a day arriving at each of the islands airports - that's a lot of people.

Col de Puymorens

The climbing is pretty much as I recall from 25 years ago - good but not brilliant - the island is much more a holiday destination than a climbing one. Interestingly, the majority of the good climbing is in the higher grades, some of the hardest climbs look truly superb. In general the easier stuff is short, polished and undergraded! The local climbers who are interested in attracting visitors are missing a trick here. There are some great areas at Las Canadas for example that would make excellent lower grader 'Escuelas'. Currently they are just set up for top-roping - which appears to be a bit of a waste.

Sun Seekers

 The winter holidays in France are always a bit busy for our liking, Chez Arran gets full and noisy, plus the roads and moutains are packed. With that being the case we decided to fly south to sample February in Tenerife - 25 years since we were last there. Of course it is full on holiday season in the Canaries with 100 flights a day arriving. We sidestepped the hordes by stopping in the tiny resort of Abades about 10 minutes drive from the airport.

Waving Cactus

Of course we came for the climbing and that proved to be hot, dusty and busy - peak season eh? Fortunately many of the developed crags are in deep barrancos so the sun can be enjoyed or avoided according to taste. The grades seem tough (getting old!) and although a lot of the cliffs look scruffy, much of the climbing is very good.
The other thing that has struck us has been the incessant wind - a blustery north easterly that has kicked up the dust and rattled the shutters every day.

Winter in the Mountains

A snowy amble somewhere up near the Andorra border.

It has been four weeks since we left the UK - time flies, The weather in the Pyrenees has been much more unsettled that we have been used to in recent years, though that has meant plenty of time for snow related messing about, plus a great opportunity to press on with my next book - a climbing guide to Kalymnos. We had already produced an App for phones/tablets featuring nearly 3000 routes but apparently the book distributors Cordee said they get more enquires about a RockFax to Kalymnos that any other guidebook. With that being the case and Alan having a bit of a lull in book production we decided to go for it. Already it is looking excellent and will be bang up-to-date.

Rockfax Kalymnos guidebook sample page