Out of Season

Roussos (5c)Dolphin Bay, early December

We have been visiting Kalymnos for 11 years now - our very first trip was in October 2008. It was so good that we let our return flight go without us and stayed for six weeks rather than the planned month.
BUT (and it was quite a big but) for most of our visit it was both very hot and very busy. Annoyingly by the time we left at the start of November the temperature was dropping nicely and the number of climbers had thinned out by around 90%.
So a plan was hatched and we have pretty much stuck to it ever since - in the autumn we usually arrive late October, enjoy prime conditions and quiet crags and leave around Christmas time when the weather often turns a bit unsettled. Springtime is another option (early March onwards) with the greenery and the flowers offering an amazing contrast to the scorched desert of the autumn. The weather is usually excellent, with highs up to around 20C and lows of about 10C. A cool northerly often blows creating ideal conditions for visiting all the cliffs around Arginonta which are normally furnaces in the high season.

Springtime in Kalymnos

Just another Kalymnos sunset

So why doesn't everybody do that? Well I guess a lot of people enjoy the melee and hub-bub of Masouri in the high season - and come for a hot-rock climbing holiday. Plus there are complications, most places (accommodation, shops and restaurants) on the western coastal strip are shut. We stop at Babis Bar in Myrties - that bit of the coast gets more winter sun than Masouri plus there is Stalas supermarket just over the road that stays open all winter. For eating out it is only a three minute drive over the hill to Elias square where the trio of restaurants - Kitsos, Il Posto and Merinos, stay open all year, offering a friendly welcome, great Greek food and free wifi.
Getting to Kalymnos out of season is a little trickier once the holiday companies stop flying direct to Kos, but there are two or three flights a day from Athens to Kos (Aegean or Sky Express) so with a little planning you can still get here from the UK in a day. There are also fights straight into Kalymnos from Athens several days a week (Sky Express) which is a great way to arrive. If you do have to spend a night in Athens, Tina's Apartments come recommended,  only 10 minutes from the airport and they offer a free shuttle both ways.
So there it is - if you fancy escaping the crowds and having these magnificent cliffs pretty much to yourself it is easier than you might have imagined - maybe see you there next year.
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Turkish Delights

Stormy skies over Karaöz

Great climbing at Olympos

For somewhere a little different we thought we would invite Colin out to Antalya for a couple of weeks climbing, being quite impressed with the area when visited it briefly 18 months ago. The chance to visit Sherri's mum in Marmaris and call in to Kalymnos once the 'silly season' was done made a decent job of a plan.

Always a kitten or two

Four hours with Jet2 Manchester to Antalya was easy, finding and collecting the hire car less so, a battle through cross-town traffic and we booked into our pad on the outskirts of Konyaalti just after dusk.
We had 10 days climbing at Geyikbayiri - a great spot, though much of the climbing is pretty hard and temperatures of up to 31C didn't help.
Then we move down the coast to the tiny village of Karaöz so we would have access to the climbing at Olympos.
The main crag of interest is the shady gorge of Dershane - quite a popular little spot with a great set of routes on lovely fluted limestone.  Most of the 50+ routes are sub-6b, well bolted and on high quality rock.
I once asked a travelling Yank what the climbing at Antalya was like - "just like Kalymnos" was his reply. I can confirm that apart from being sport routes on limestone, it is nothing like Kalymnos, quite a remote feeling area, friendly locals, and cheap too. Being 'different' isn't a bad thing, variety is the spice of life and this is certainly a very different part of the world, and one I would strongly recommend visiting.

East or West - Which is Best?

Orpierre - busy, busy, busy

Good old Auzat

 After the delights of the granite heaven of Mello  we headed to Orpierre for a few days via a single night in Argentierre-la-Besse and a two crag day just to pass the time on.
Oprierre was generally quiet though the day before we arrived they had 120 students stopping at the campsite we use - thankfully the owner forewarned us.
Then is was a six hour push back to Chez Arran and the Ariege, five and a half months since we checked out. We soon settled into the usual routine of climbing hiking and taking White Cat to the vets! He(she) had a nasty open sore on her head and with his(her) history the vet thought it best to removed it. Four days on she is doing OK.

White Cat in her happy place

I spent a very productive few days finish off a series of crags I have been working on for a while for the Rockfax App - an Ariege update, Santorini (from a few years ago) Mello and all the new routes at Orpierre that aren't in our current guidebook.
And suddenly it is that time again, if all goes well we will be in Manchester this evening to meet Colin and Antalya (Turkey) late tomorrow.

Italian Lakes and Mountains

Our Mobile Home at Arco

High above Lake Garda

 After a great 10 days in the Dolomites we headed south and east with the intention of being in the Ariege in about three weeks time. I was keen on visiting a couple of Italian venues we climbed at many years ago and never manage to get back too - the famous spots of Arco and Mello.

Lake above Mello

Arco was first, we booked a mobile home in the small village of Pietramurata, a few miles north of the buzzing towns of Arco and Riva del Garda - late September but very much holiday season in the main towns. Despite this, the campsite was pretty much deserted - just how we like it.

Superb granite - Mello

After 10 days exploring the Arco cliffs it was on to the fabulous Mello - I visited the valley for a single day 16 years ago and still recalled the great atmosphere - it was time for a rematch.
We stopped in the heart of the valley in a great apartment in San Martino - a super-tranquil spot. The sun only hits the village for four hours a day at this time of year - mid-winter must be a bit grim up here.
The climbing is on superb granite though the best crag - the huge boulder of the Sasso Remenno - is a victim of its own quality and accessibility - it was packed every time we visited, mostly with groups of school kids. We worked around them and got some great climbs done and did some hiking in the deserted mountains.

Dreaming of the Dolomites

High above Canazie

Canazie and Marmolata

The ten days in Austria were great despite a breakdown in the weather towards the end of our stay. In the event our route south via the Timellsjoch Pass was blocked by snow so we had to detour via Innsbruck and the Brenner Pass joining the crowds heading south.
We stopped in Canazie, under the mighty Marmolada - a really fantastic part of the world. It is more of a mountaineering venue though we managed to find enough sport climbing to pass 10 days using the excellent Rockfax guidebook.

Huben, Ötztal, Austria

Although the season is coming to an end everywhere is still pretty busy, especially the passes which are heaving with cyclists, motorbikes, coaches and hoards of people.
At just under 5000' Canazie has been lovely and cool, but now we have to head downhill towards the hot lands - first stop Arco.

On The Road Again

A quiet moment in the park

Climbing at Oberried, Ötztal

Seven weeks in the UK - a bit of a chore but there were lots of things that had to be done, including all the usual dentists, doctors, opticians, and visiting the mummies.
I got out climbing in the Peak on a few occasions, and that is the same as it ever was, a sociable time in a variety of settings from the magnificent Stanage to some less salubrious holes in the ground - all good fun though.
I made a decision to dump my slide collection built up over around 30 years - a rough count came up with around 25,000 images. I put a picture of them ready for the tip on FaceBook and got a torrent of comments suggesting I hang on to them as they were of historical interest. Anyway, I got in touch with the Mountain Heritage Trust in the Lakes and they said they would be happy to hold them in their archive - so we drove up and delivered the lot.
And then it was off again - Sheffield > Hull > Rotterdam > Karlsruhe > Ötztal - back to Austria, initially for 10 days in the Tyrol. It is still busy and warm, but autumn is on the way and soon everywhere will be quietening down.

Home(?) at Last

Stanage Edge

Learning to Fly

After wandering up through France we made it back to Zeebrugge for the ferry and sailed into Hull the following morning to some refreshingly cool drizzle. Of course Blighty it the same as ever, unsettled weather, busy roads and of course the crowds.

Saltburn by the Sea

We have raced through all the usual jobs, doctors, dentists, opticians, garage (managed to buy a new car!), visit the parents and of course get out climbing in the Peak with the 'Usual Suspects'. Visits to Harpur Hill on the hotter days, clipping bolts, and trad climbing Stanage on the breezier days fitted the bill.
I have sold a heap of stuff on EBay and made a move towards shifting the thousands (c25,000) of slides I have amassed over the years - apparently the Mountain Heritage Trust might be interested.
Alan James (Rockfax) gave me a lesson in drone flying, the Mavic has a high quality camera and the drone is a great way of getting tricky crag shots and unique angles on action ones. 
Already we are thinking about the autumn - no plans as yet but we will be heading south before the end of the month - bring it on.

Bootiful Burgundy

Classic climbing at Remigny.

Our path northwards towards the UK passed Colin's as he headed south to Spain so we decided to hook up for a week in Burgundy.
With it being July it was as hot as expected but we managed to climb every day bar one - we had the Sunday that was Bastille Day off just to stay away from busy roads and crowded cliffs.
We called into the area back in December when it cold (-4C) and foggy - this time it was a lot better. Thirty one routes, four new cliffs and everywhere pretty quite.
Tomorrow we head for Zeebrugge and the ferry to Hull whilst Colin is away into the hots lands of northern Spain.

Butterflies in Burgundy

It will be eleven months less one day since we left when we arrive back in Hull. Once home we will allow ourselves a month to get the multitudinous list of jobs out of the way - and then I think we will do it all over again.

Weaving a Way North

Warming up near Bourg Saint Maurice

I had to check the diary - almost five weeks since we left Chez Arran and we have had a pleasant perambulation though destinations old and new.
We started in Orpierre which was nice and quiet for a change, then onwards to Briançon. After 10 days there we move over the Maurienne valley for a week or so. Another set of passes got us to Bourg Saint Maurice and a new set of cliffs to go at.
Currently we are in another new area - the Bauge mountains in the grip of a heatwave, 32C today made the climbing hard work. 

Apprentice Grimpeurs 2 (5c) - Falaise de Croe

Three weeks left before we have to catch the ferry, should be able to squeeze in a few more venues. We are meeting Colin for a week south of Dijon - that will doubtless be hard work - but the usual fun.
After that it is back to Blighty to get all the usual jobs done - the dentists and the opticians are already booked!

Homeward Bound - Slowly.

The campsite at Orpierre - surrounded by cliffs

Almost a month since I last blogged - we have been on the move is my only excuse. Marmaris, Kalymnos, Manchester, Ariege, Orpierre and now Briançon - no wonder I occasionally get confused as to where we are when I wake up in the morning.
We have 10 days in Briançon then a week in the Maurienne, and after that, a blank slate with a rough plan to be back in the UK by mid-July, just before the schools break up and everywhere starts getting busy. The aim there is to get trained up in drone flying, and to help Alan (James) with the next Peak Limestone guidebook.

Turkey Time

Amphitheatre at Aphrodisias

Sunset near Ephesus

After continuous climbing for two and a half weeks with Colin the Peleponnes and another then another 10 days on Kalymnos I felt a bit 'climbed out' so we decided to visit Turkey on the way to Sherri's mums in Marmaris and on the way back to collect the car in France.

Crowds at Pamukkale

Poppies and mountains

Touristing isn't something we do much of but we thought we would try a few of the famous sites of 'Asia Minor'. In the event it was an interesting experience but not one we will be rushing to repeat. The places and spectacular and thought provoking but two of the sites - the Roman remains Ephesus, and the Travertine springs at Pamukkale were packed with almost unimaginable number of tourists pouring through all day long. The exception was the magnificent Aphodisias - a huge site of spectacular remains and completely deserted - touristing for agoraphobics!

Deep South

The highest peak in the Peleponnes - Mt Taygetus 8778'

After the success of the autumn trip to mainland Greece we decided to do something similar only heading down into the Peleponnes rather than northwards and make the trip a little longer so we weren't under any pressure of time.
Apart from one wet and windy day that affected the whole of Greece conditions have been superb, warm days, cool nights and the fresh greens of spring everywhere. As last year the crags have been high quality with great climbs and apart from a Sunday when there were a couple of teams at Solomos we haven't seen another climber anywhere.

Day Four or was it Five - a tough 6a at Nedousa

The accommodation has been varied and interesting, from posh apartments to old renovated seaside cottages and, as ever, the locals are super friendly and so keen to please.

Day One: Solomos above the olive groves

 The scenery has been stunning throughout, high snowy peaks, deep wooded valleys with tumbing streams and golden beaches stretching off into the distant blue. Plus there is the awesome sense of history stretching back at least 5000 years - in some senses this where it all began.

Swooping Through

Sherri above Ax-les-Thermes

The Blanca was great, Spain has developed a lot over the 30+ years that we have been visiting. We had a productive five weeks in the area, briefly meeting up the a big UKC/Rockfax team who were out for 'jolly' and who well impressed with the weather and the climbing available. Then we returned to the Ariege via very pleasant stop over at the Ebro Delta for a bit of birding. Glossy Ibis and Crested Lark were two new ticks for me - always nice to catch something you have never seen before.

Back to the glorious granite of Auzat.

Then it was back to Chez Arran for a short (9 day) break in the snowy Pyrenees for the usual easy going mix of climbing, hiking and chilling. Next it is back on the road - Greece here we come. Last autumn's tour of the Mainland was so good we have decided to do something similar again. Colin is flying into Athens for two and a half weeks - no fixed plans, lets see where the mood takes us.

Spring in Spain and memories of Dave Gregory

Spain - Spring - Sweet

It is time to start thinking about the Costa Blanca guidebook rewrite even though it is at least a couple of years away so we packed up at Chez Arran, said goodbye to the cats and headed south. We stopped at Castelleon la Plana on the way down for a few days - a pleasant part of the world but very windy for much of the time.
It is seven long years since we have been in the Costa Blanca and being back has been great - 10 days so far and has been exceptional, especially notable has been the fantastic weather.
There are lots of climbers around and plenty of copies of the current book on view - an update is going to be a massive task which is why we have started early.

Sherri and the mighty Penōn

Back in the UK Dave Gregory's family had a wake for him after his death last month - there was no funeral as he donated his body to medical research. Apparently it was  a very moving occasion with over 200 folks turning up to celebrate his life. We would have like to be there but Dave would have understood - there are rocks to climb and books to write.
Rest easy old fellow, it was a privilege to share a rope with you over so many years and on so many great routes.

In seach of the Sun

Plateau de Beille - magical

Our six weeks at Chez Arran have passed a pleasantly as ever, though for the past couple of weeks the weather has been about as unsettled as we have ever known it with a lot of snow, rain and cloud. Colin called in for a week on his way back to the UK, and in the event we only got one day's climbing in which was a disappointment. We kept busy with hiking, caving, snowshoeing etc but I missed the chance for him to tow me up a few good routes.

The forecast remain very unsettled so we have made a decision to bring out trip down to the Costa Blanca forward a couple of weeks. There is so much snow in the mountains we are probably going to have to go 'the long way round' but needs must.